SPRING SUMMER 2019 RUNWAY SHOW
At Salvatore Ferragamo the future is drawn as powerfully from elements of a rich tradition as it is from a vision for the world of tomorrow. It is from this positive tension that Paul Andrew and Guillaume Meilland propose a Spring/Summer collection for women and men that conveys innovation and high craft in light, effortless gestures. Color theory, the versatility of leather and an investigation of silhouette carry over from their Fall/Winter debut and work to establish a new lexicon of sophistication that translates unique Italian ideals to a global audience.
The wardrobe evokes the utilitarianism of workwear in contrast with the noble luxury of the finest raw materials and finishings. Bold colors - emerald, Caribbean blue, violet, burnt orange and flame red - punctuate a neutral palette of biscuit, khaki-fatigue, parchment and off-white. A lush botanical print originating from the Ferragamo foulard library is reimagined. A woven motif appears handwoven in leather, in open stitch knitwear and as a print throughout the collection. Linens and organzas juxtaposed with precious skins create a dialogue of substance and levity. Shoes and accessories naturally assume prominence as functional objects in the aesthetic spirit of the house’s formidable archive.
The cast is wonderfully diverse: women and men of varying age and ethnicity, a reflection and celebration of the world as it truly is. The Ferragamo of yesterday and tomorrow, given life by today.
Paul Andrew says: “Alongside Guillaume, I’m working to make a Salvatore Ferragamo that not only appeals to all generations but also acts as a point of connection between them. The soul of this house lies in the artistic and technical genius of Salvatore’s shoe designs - his genius never gets old - and that is where we started with this collection.”
Key womenswear pieces include: handkerchief skirts and dresses in sueded calf, karung, kangaroo, silk and foulard jacquard, desert shirts, nappa dungarees, foulard-lined bombers, mesh-encased foulard dresses and cotton voile ponchos.
Key menswear pieces include: leather bonded and detailed linen jeans, leather cuffed poplin t-shirts, knitted jacquard foulard-pattern polos, mesh t-shirts and fully embroidered shorts, quilted vest in burnt orange, dynamically cut macs whose soft-shine finish reflects the duchesse pieces in womenswear, and superlight trenches and shirting in technical poplin.
Shoes are the foundation of the collection. Refreshed archival classics include the iconic Vara, whose bow has been upgraded from grosgrain to moulded metal. The knee-high boots, raised sandals and mens’ rubber and rope soled desert boots are all uppered in handwoven leather: for each pair of boots, a Ferragamo artisan must spend 16 hours weaving 330 metres of nappa with precision and skill. The sculptural stacked leather heel of an archival net-uppered Salvatore sandal is reimagined for now in harmony with a boldly simple karung upper. Platform sole mules feature the All Gancini monogram. An archival Salvatore shoe that deployed four lengths of twisted terry as an upper is recast in foulard print, linen and nappa.
Bags include the new All Gancini monogram fabrication Ferragamo Studio bag and a versatile wallet/microbag featuring Gancini hardware. A new shoulderbag comes in rich Tuscan-sunset colorways. For men the Dynamo carry-all in woven leather comes lined in a monogram inner. A work bag in saddlery leather features tough workwear riveting details. Belts feature double-Gancini buckles in several all-new fabrications, for man and women.
Eyewear styles feature cat’s eye lenses for women in karung-covered frames featuring the house Giancini logo at the temple. For men a more linear lens shape is set in similar frame, also with house hardware.
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